There’s a stack of info on the internet about grafting cacti. So rather than turn this into another tutorial with alot info you possibly already know, I thought I’d cover just few points that sometimes get overlooked or possibly aren’t commonly known. Then at the end there’s a link to a tutorial which I reckon is a pretty good one.
Grafting tips to increase your success
- Make sure when you cut the scion and rootstock so both contacting surfaces are as flat as possible. The idea here is to ensure 100% contact between the 2 surfaces. You will want to try and avoid the edges of the scion not contacting or a waving type surface created from the sawing action of a dull blade. When I first started I used a sharp knife with a thin flexible snap blade. Although it was sharp and cut easily, it tended to leave a slightly scalloped surface. I then used a self sharpening knife with a rigid, unserrated blade and got better results. Whatever you use, the goal is to get both surfaces as flat as possible.
- You need to apply constant pressure on the scion to keep it in contact with the rootstock. Let me explain. Initially, over time the exposed cuts on the rootstock will dry out and shrink. It’s like it’s is moving away from the scion. You need something elastic to keep the pressure on the scion. Sounds common sense, right! But I’ve seen tutorials where folded cling wrap is used. In fact, initially this is what I used. I did have some success but the resulting grafts weren’t very good. Then I started to use rubber bands. The problem was, how to secure them. I then came up with a method which I’ll demo a bit further on. The point is, make sure you can keep constant pressure on the scion for about a week while it fuses with the rootstock.
- Make sure you sterilise your knife. Most tutorials recommend alcohol. All I’ve ever used is Metholated Spirits. It’s cheap, readily available and I’ve never had any issues using it. I don’t even sterilise between each cut, which is what some tutorials recommend. If you have your doubts about Metho though, I’d recommend using what you’re comfortable with.
- There are lots of different types of rootstocks. The idea is to use one that is readily available and is reasonable vigourous. Initially I tried a Myrtillocactus Geometrizans. I grafted a Pilosocereus onto it. The Pilo rootstock then grew a pup and it ended up outgrowing the Pilo scion on the graft. So I ditched that idea. I then used Trichocereus spachianus. I had some large clumps in 40cm pots which which I’d dug out the of the ground. I did some areole grafts using Psycho0 as the scion which were successful. I then used the Psycho0 pups as grafting stock. So spachianus and Psycho0 are both good rootstocks. Trichocereus pachanoi is also commonly used. Trichocereus schickendantzii is also another I’ve used. I’ve had mixed results with this one though. I tends to pup more freely and sometimes around the tip at the expense of the scion.
- Don’t be afraid to experiment and find your own method. Use a scion to start with that you aren’t afraid to lose. There are many, many methods out there. Just find one that works for you.
Tools of the trade.

How to use the rubber bands





An example of a really bad graft, but not all was lost!

The Remedy




Never say die!!!
Here’s a pretty good video on grafting. I really like the stocking method he is using. Remember it doesn’t matter what you use. The goal is to maintain that constant pressure!